Модерният блог за маркова парфюмерия » Noses

Emilie (Bevierre) Coppermann – an artful perfumer, constantly seeking new inspiration

laz_007 — Fri, 03 Apr 2015 00:00:00 +0000

Emilie (Bevierre) Coppermann discovered her passion about perfumes at a very early age. She was just 13 years old when she realized perfumery will take a major part in her life. In order to make her dream come true she knew she should study hard, so she studied organic chemistry and attended the International Institute of Perfumes, Cosmetics & Aromas in Versailles.

The perfumes she creates have a unique style and are inspired by her feminine intuition. In them you can get a feeling of her dreams and her passion for India (especially in the woody scents she is passionate about). She is also captivated by the beauty of flowers, and the harmony of nature. Her style is distinctive as she adds unusual character to her fragrances by implementing brave combinations of both male and female notes in the same perfume.

Here’s what Emilie (Bevierre) Coppermann shares about her inspiration and her goal when creating a new perfume composition: “As a perfumer, I am constantly seeking out new inspiration. When designing a fragrance, my goal is to both surprise and fulfill secret desires.”

A lot of perfume houses rely on her know-how to create great perfumes – some of them include Chopard, Givenchy, Christian Lacroix, Biotherm, Sonia Rykiel, Paco Rabanne, and Yves Rocher. Despite this, a true recognition of her work is the award from the Centre du Luxe et de la Création, the Prix Lalique award that she received in 2012. She was awarded for enriching the world of luxury and lifestyle with her creations.

Here’s what Jacques Carles, President of the Centre du Luxe et de la Création, says about her: “Emilie Coppermann is an inspiration with her passion for luxury fragrance creations. They artfully lead us into a world of woods and spicy fragrances. She skillfully combines unusual materials to create harmonious compositions that leave us craving for more.”

Dr. Heinz-Jürgen Bertram, CEO of Symrise AG, is impressed by her talent as well, “She has the courage to try new ideas and the ability to create seductive fragrances with her unique creative talents. She is an inspiration to her colleagues and her work is a key factor in Symrise’s success. We excitedly await her next fantastic creations that always manage to correspond with the latest trends.”

Some of her great creations you will find in our online shop:

What is your favorite perfume created by Emilie (Bevierre) Coppermann? Share it with us in the comments below!

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Jacques Cavallier – a controversial perfumer with a sensitive heart and a sharp sense of humor

laz_007 — Mon, 23 Mar 2015 00:00:00 +0000

Jacques Cavallier could be called a controversial perfumer with a sensitive heart and a sharp sense of humor. His influence on the perfume industry is so big that even his perfume creations that can be called “a failure” by commercial standards, are influential – they create brand new trends, or inspire other perfumers to create masterpieces. Whether “a hit” or “a failure”, each perfume Jacques Cavallier creates is a masterpiece on its own, difficult to classify and exciting in its own specific way.

His great talent is highly valued by some of the most famous perfume houses like Issey Miyake, Yves Saint Laurent, Cacharel, Diesel, Lancome, Nina Ricci, Paco Rabanne, Jean Paul Gaultier, Bulgari, Armani, Tom Ford and many others.

Jacques Cavallier was born in Grasse in January 1962. He comes from a very old family that has been living there since the 15^th century. No wonder he became a perfumer as perfumery runs in his veins – both his father and his grandfather were perfumers. When he was a child, he spent several hours a day studying raw materials – he remembers he was particularly fond of natural materials. This time was well spent, given the fact that his creations make millions of people around the world happy and special.

After his father taught him everything he knew about raw natural materials, Jacques Cavallier joined Naarden (Quest) in Grasse and then was transferred to the Netherlands. He was next appointed at PFW in 1988 and then at Firmenich in 1990. At that time he was only 28 years old – it was then that he met 2 people who would have great influence on his successful career as a perfumer: Alberto Morillas, his “brother in creation” and Chantal Roos who taught him “how to work and impose his choices”.

When it comes to perfumes and their influence on the personality, Jacques Cavallier thinks that, “A perfume is very personal, and can be perceived in many different ways. There are indeed two major approaches: the fragrance can be considered as a mirror of one’s personality, or be adapted depending on mood or seasons.”

Some of the great perfumes, created by Jacques Cavallier you will find in our online shop:

As the famous American Journalist Chandler Burr describes him, he is ”…a prolific perfumer so successful these days that he often seems to generate a quarter of each year’s worldwide fragrance product.”

Do you have a favorite perfume by Jacques Cavallier? Share it with us in the comments below!

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Sophia Grojsman – a revolutionary perfumer with a progressive vision of the art of making perfumes

laz_007 — Mon, 02 Mar 2015 00:00:00 +0000

Sophia Grojsman is a revolutionary perfumer with a progressive vision of the art of making perfumes. Her distinctive signature can be seen in using very few perfume ingredients, creating powerful sensations and adding a specific character to the perfumes she creates.

Throughout her career she has worked with an impressive list of the most famous brands, including A Lab on Fire, Bill Blass, Boucheron, Bvlgari, Calvin Klein, Celine, Christian Lacroix, Clinique, Coty, Elizabeth Arden, Elizabeth Taylor, Estée Lauder, Frederic Malle, Gloria Vanderbilt, HRH Princess Elizabeth, Karl Lagerfeld, Kenzo, Lalique, Lancome, Laura Biagiotti, Love2Love, Michel Germain, Oscar de la Renta, Paloma Picasso, Yves Rocher, Yves Saint Laurent, etc.

Born on 08^th March 1945, she grew up in a small Belarussian town where her mother learnt to rely on her incredible sense of smell ever since she was just a girl. Here’s what she recalls, “Since we did not have refrigeration, my mother would ask me to taste the butter, milk, and cottage cheese in order to determine their freshness. If I would make a face, she knew that the food would spoil within a day and she would never buy it.”

Entering the world of perfume barefoot, with no previous experience whatsoever, she learns everything from scratch, “I had no experience! I smelled things in the lab, but I never knew how the perfume was made. My impression was that you collect the flowers, put them in alcohol and then you mix them. I learned in the midst of experimenting and studying.”

A true admirer of flowers, Sophia Groijsman puts them on a pedestal when it comes to their role in creating a successful perfume. She is particularly fascinated by the luxury and opulence of the queen of flowers, the rose. Here’s what she shares about this love, “Rose is a flower of love; it is the first flower that a man gives to a woman. Petals of roses have this luxurious, rich smell that is familiar. My competitors would always say that everything I make is rosey. And even if I did not have any roses in the composition, they would still say that it is too rosey.”

Some of the perfumes, created by Sophia Grojsman, you will find in our online store:

Bill Blass Nude EDC for women – this gentle floral fragrance is especially created for the sensuous woman. Fresh, yet rich, the perfume is incredibly intimate.
Bvlgari Pour Femme EDP for women – this delicate floral fragrance, created by Sophia Grojsman is a true jewel in the Bvlgari collection. Romantic and feminine, this fragrance remains a classic (it was first launched in 1994, but in 2006 it was renovated and relaunched in a more luxurious design).
Lancome Tresor EDP for women – Sophia Grojsman created this perfume for the exceptionally elegant woman who can conquer the world with grace as her most powerful weapon.
YSL Parisienne EDP for women – created by Sophie Labbe and Sophia Grojsman, this perfume is a true treasure of style, romance, and love. It perfectly balances the mystery and feminine individuality of the woman who wears it.

Do you have a favourite perfume created by Sophia Grojsman? Share it with us in the comments below!

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Pierre Bourdon – one of the most innovative perfumers of his generation

laz_007 — Fri, 13 Feb 2015 00:00:00 +0000

Born on the 9^th of March 1946 in Paris, France, Pierre Bourdon considers the creation of a perfume to be a work of art. But, before he discovered for himself the beauty of this work of art, he had earned a degree in a very different sphere – political science (he graduated the Political Studies Institute).

After his graduation he made a dramatic turn and went to study raw materials at Roure (now Givaudan) in Grasse for 5 years. After he finished his perfume studies, he went back to Paris where he gained a lot of experience specializing in the sphere of products for personal hygiene (soaps, body lotions, etc.).

In 1982 he became one of the co-founders of Takasago Europe. The 1990s was the period when he started working for Quest and, in the mid-1990s, he became the director of the Paris office of Creative Resources. He is often described as one of the most innovative perfumers of his generation – his vision of contemporary perfumery is connected with innovation, quality, and modernity. After a long and productive career, Pierre Bourdon put an end to his professional life, and, since late 2007, he is retired.

Here’s his interesting opinion on the choices of perfumes we make: “The choice of a perfume has as much to do with the regional culture as with one’s preferences. It is even much more controlled by existing social codes than by desires believed to be one’s own.”

In an interview he was asked to link his creative sensibility to a pictorial style. Here’s his answer to this challenge, “The period between impressionism and fauvism – a creative period which balances on figurative interpretation and transcendental reality. Having said that, I am equally fond of Vermeer’s paintings, in which the reproduction of light is almost supernatural.”

Some of Pierre Bourdon’s creations you will find in our online shop:

Do you have a favourite perfume by the creative perfumer Pierre Bourdon? Share it with us in the comments below!

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Olivier Cresp – a highly valued perfumer with a passion for perfumes that runs in his veins

laz_007 — Sun, 01 Feb 2015 00:00:00 +0000

We should not be surprised that Olivier Cresp, a master perfumer at Firmenich, has a lot in common with the cradle of perfumery, Grasse. Not only was he born there, but he was also born in a family that has been deeply involved in the perfumery industry. His grandfather and his father used to trade with raw materials and his sister, Françoise Caron, is a perfumer as well. His family has been involved in the perfume industry since the 12^th century!

His work is highly valued by some of the most famous fragrance brands, including Dolce & Gabanna, Jean Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler, Carolina Herrera, Dior, Paco Rabanne, Issey Miyake, and Nina Ricci. His perfume mastery got him the highly regarded award Chevalier de l’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres in 2012 (this prize is a recognition to people who have made a ‘significant contribution to the enrichment of the French cultural inheritance’).

Olivier Cresp’s passion for perfumes runs in his veins and this is proven by the fact that, at the early age of 7, he already knew he wanted to become a perfumer, making his first attempts at creating perfumes! His love for perfumes took him to New York, where he studied perfumery at Biddle Sawyer. Then he moved back to the home of perfumery, France, where he worked at De Laire, Quest, and, ever since 1992, he has been a part of the Firmenich team.

Here are some priceless tips he shares about fragrances:

DON’T store fragrances under hot lights in your bathroom as the temperature will alter the top notes, turning them sharper or more sour and sometimes musty. You should keep your fragrances cool by storing them in the fridge to prolong the scent.
DO spray fragrance into your hair rather than all over your body. This will help the scent to last longer compared to quickly rubbing off your skin. It also means that when moving your head, there’ll be a more natural waft of fragrance.
DO use a variety of fragrances for different occasions and seasons. A collection of five to six different scents is recommended.
DON’T wear a sensuous fragrance on your wedding day. Instead, stick to jasmine or rose-based scents for a romantic, but not overly sexy aroma.
DO wear a warm fragrance for a first date. Opt for a spicy scent like pepper to excite his senses.
DON’T wear an overpowering scent for a job interview. Stick to classic, unfussy smells.

You will find a lot of Olivier Cresp’s creations in our website:

What is your favorite perfume by Olivier Cresp? Share it with us in the comments below!

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Thierry Wasser – Guerlain’s “adopted son”

laz_007 — Mon, 12 Jan 2015 00:00:00 +0000

Thierry Wasser has been Guerlain’s nose since 2008. Born in Switzerland, he is the first perfumer not coming from Guerlain’s family, but they call him their “adopted son”. He has surely proved to be worthy of being called part of the family with some of the great creations he made for Guerlain so far: Idylle, Habit Rouge l’Eau, Shalimar Parfum Initial, and a reinterpretation of the famous La Petite Robe Noire.

Born in 1961 in Montreux, Thierry Wasser recalls his youth and the way his interest in botany and nature influenced his decision to become a part of the perfume industry: “My interest in botany is definitely linked to my youth and my childhood environment in Switzerland. I lived in a small town in the wooded hills, and there as a boy, I developed a sense for the rhythm of nature and the seasons. Our neighbors were farmers and I was over there all the time and developed a strong interest in nature. This was my first experience with Wellington boots! I lived in them. The neighboring farm had different animals including a couple of cows producing milk, some pigs, and chickens. They also grew fruits and vegetables, cherries, raspberries and apples for the tourists of Montreux. These memories affect my outlook today.”

Elegant and charming, Thierry Wasser has a craftsman mindset and is not afraid to go out of the lab into the world of raw ingredients: “Most people envision perfumers living in their lab, in the clouds somewhere, as if they were creating in a remote, isolated place, but in reality I can usually be found in a field wearing Wellington boots.”

Like every creator, Thierry Wasser considers himself an artist. However, he is well aware of the fact that his art is actually a very important part of a worldwide known perfume industry. Here’s what he thinks about the bond between art and business in Guerlain: “The marketing team does provide me with a long-term business perspective, forecasting what will be launched in the coming years. Fueled with this knowledge, I then decide how I want to express myself fragrance-wise.”

In his career each success is followed by another and this can be proved both by the trust that Guerlain put in him and by some of the prestigious international awards he was given. In 2009 he was awarded “the Best Luxe Men’s Launch” at the Canadian Fragrance Awards and in 2014 he was awarded the “Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur” medal.

His passion for recreating classic perfumes and reformulating old fragrances is evident in his work. “In the fragrance industry today, you need two feet to dance: a great, blockbuster classic and a younger, more accessible formula.” To him the fragrance development from sourcing the raw materials personally to creating the perfume itself is a never-dying art: “It’s a privilege and a luxury – it won’t die – that’s why I’m here.”

Here are some of the perfumes Thierry Wasser created that you can find in our website:

Do you have a favorite Thierry Wasser perfume? Share it with us in the comments below!

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Michel Almairac – a true artist always in search of a new inspiration

laz_007 — Mon, 15 Dec 2014 00:00:00 +0000

Michel Almairac was born in 1953 in Grasse, France. If we say that perfume is in his DNA, we won’t be far from the truth. Grasse is the capital of perfumery and it undoubtedly had its impact on his decision to devote his life to perfumery. Here’s his opinion on this: “Well it made things a lot easier! I was always surrounded by scents and smells which is part of life in that city, natural ones from the crops of flowers growing in the fields, and industrial ones as well, from the perfume factories. Then when I was 13/14 I asked to visit a perfume plant and was fascinated by the atmosphere, all the people in their white coats dipping and mixing scents.”

With over 30 years of experience Michel Almairac has worked for world famous perfume companies, such as Takasago, Florasynth, Creations Aromatiques, and Robertet. He studied perfumery in 1972 at the Roure School and he has been creating iconic fragrances for big global brands such as Burberry, Gucci, Chloe, Joop!, and Escada ever since.

His perfumes are highly valued in the perfume world. Here’s the secret behind his creations: “I always use simple, short formulas. If you get it wrong and have to start from scratch, it’s easier to correct. A former boss asked why I used such short formulas. I said I can find a mistake easier if it’s short. It started from being lazy as a young perfumer. It’s easier to weigh 30 ingredients than 300.”

Michel Almairac is always in search of a new inspiration. He loves exploring new lands in the perfume world, such as combining modern and classical ingredients. For him “… fragrance is like cooking. The same ingredients can make mayonnaise or Chantilly crème. It’s the same mystery with perfume. It’s the art of blending. The interaction of ingredients is all-important. A teacher of mine used to say, ‘If you can’t smell it, you don’t need it.’ But I’m not stubborn, or obsessed with simplifying formulas. I’ll use what’s required. What sparks my fancy are the raw materials.”

Like a true artist, he considers his work his passion. No wonder he has this attitude towards his creations: “I’ve had the chance to create lots of fragrances, but it’s like having lots of children. If you have 15 to 20 children you can’t choose one you love more than the others – they are all my children.”

Some of the iconic perfumes created by Michel Almairac you can find in our website:

Do you have a favourite perfume created by Michel Almairac? Which one is it? Share it with us in the comments below!

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Jacques Polge – creator of some of the most seductive and alluring perfumes of all times

laz_007 — Sun, 30 Nov 2014 00:00:00 +0000

Jacques Polge doesn’t need introduction. You may not recognize his face but you will surely recognize his creations – he has created some of the most seductive and alluring perfumes of all times. He is one of the best perfumers in the world and the fact that he’s been working for Chanel since 1978 proves that.

Like other perfumers, he has something in common with Grasse, France, where he was enchanted by the scent of jasmine in the air, when he spent the summers there as a child. Grasse was where his apprenticeship took place as well. Born in 1943, he says that the place where he spent his childhood had great influence on his decision to become a perfumer.

Here’s what he recalls of his childhood: “I grew up in the South of France, near Avignon. I would go to Grasse for the summer with my family, and go to Cannes to swim in the ocean. From Nice to Cannes, to Grasse was a garden when I was a child. There were fields of rose, jasmine, violets, and orange blossom. It was the birthplace of perfumery. When you approached Grasse, you would smell the jasmine. Now you don’t, because there is much less production here, but then, flowers were everywhere.”

He took a degree in English and literature at the university and his true love of poetry explains his vision about perfumes: “For me (a perfume) – it’s a poetic form… It’s a very peculiar way of expressing things, of saying things without using neither words, nor image – something which is invisible… And at the same time because it’s invisible it’s so strong. Because for instance a woman wears a perfume, then she disappears. What remains of her is her fragrance.”

In one of his interviews he even compares a perfume to a language: “I liked the idea, the poetic idea that fragrance is a kind of language. It doesn’t use words. It doesn’t use images. It’s invisible. All these attributes, for me, made sense.”

We can only imagine where his career would go if he followed his love of poetry. Here is his beautiful explanation of the similarity between poetry and fragrance: “I am a lover of poetry. What would reality be without its poetic dimension? Even if you do not read poetry, it plays an important role in everyday life. I am a lover of fragrance, and fragrance is a form of poetry. It doesn’t speak, but it gives so much.”

We should all be thankful he chose to follow his nose rather than his pen in his career, ever since he started working for Chanel, he has created some of the best selling Chanel fragrances, including Chanel No. 5 (EDP version), Allure, Antaeus, Egoïste, Cristalle Eau Verte, Coco, Coco Mademoiselle (EDP, EDT, Parfum), Chance, Les Exclusifs series, Chanel N°5 Eau Premiere, Bleu de Chanel, etc. What’s more, he put his genius into reviving some of Chanel’s lost and never realized fragrances from the past.

In one of his interviews he reveals the secret of successful Chanel product development and marketing strategy: “… we don’t want to create too many new things because often new fragrances replace the old ones… We want our fragrances to complement each other, and to last. When we create something, we’re always looking to the long term, we never do anything just for the short term.” He also shares that the most difficult (and the longest) part of the perfume creating process is finding a name for the new perfume (as most names are already taken).

Here are some of the perfumes created by Jacques Polge that you will find in our website:

Are you a fan of Jack Polge’s perfumes? Which one is your favorite among them?

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Dominique Ropion – one of the most skillful perfumers in the contemporary perfume industry

laz_007 — Tue, 11 Nov 2014 00:00:00 +0000

Deeply influenced by nature and all its glory, Dominique Ropion is one of the most skillful perfumers in the contemporary perfume industry. According to him perfumes should be regarded an art form. Moreover, in one of his interviews, he insists that it is rather easy to create a bad perfume using high quality ingredients.

In order to create a great perfume, you need more than great ingredients – you need experience, knowledge, inspiration… To prove his mastery through the years, using his profound knowledge of raw materials and his amazing technique, Dominique Ropion has deserved his place among the best perfumers by creating perfume masterpieces like Givenchy’s Amarige, Calvin Klein’s Euphoria, and Thierry Mugler’s Alien.

As with most passions people have, his passion about perfumes can be traced back to a childhood memory. His first encounter with fragrance was in high school. Here’s what he remembers about it: “A girl in high school who smelled good; I thought it would be neat to know how to create that kind of effect.”

His favorite flower (as well as his favorite smell) is gardenia, because it is “complex, mysterious, sensual… like skin. Yet it’s a flower.” Despite this, he likes to experiment and he cannot name a favorite perfume ingredient. As he shares, “I like traveling through ingredients while sitting alone at my desk in the evening.” The result of this, the “destination” he reaches in these travels, is the perfumes he creates with passion, precision, and grace.

Even though he claims he puts the same effort in making perfumes for haute parfumerie as for the mass market, his hopes for the future of perfumery are directed at a slightly different shade of thinking: “I think perfumery is going to become more creative and luxurious once again. It seems to me that that is its deepest nature.”

His genius in creating masterpiece perfumes won him many prizes, one of then being the prestigious Cosmetic Valley’s International Fragrance Prize (formerly the Prix François Coty) that he won in 2008.

Today, there are hundreds of perfumes, created by Dominique Ropion that we can enjoy. Some of them he created by himself and others are result of a collaboration between him and other great perfumers. Some of these perfumes you can find in our website:

What’s your favourite perfume created by Dominique Ropion? Share it with us in the comments below!

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Francois Demachy – Dior’s Director of Olfactory Development

laz_007 — Mon, 20 Oct 2014 00:00:00 +0000

Francois Demachy grew up in the so called “cradle of perfumery”, Grasse. It is located in the French Alps and the perfumer shares that the childhood he spent there had a significant influence on his life and attitude towards scents: “In Grasse, you are constantly confronted with perfume, whether you like it not. In my youth, the flower trucks would come down in August and the fragrance of lavender would float through the air.”

He also recalls “the mimosa-covered hills, the Bataille des Fleurs parade and fields of jasmine and roses in the early morning.” Maybe that’s the reason his favorite perfume ingredients are jasmine and rose: “jasmine, because it’s carnal and forbidden, and rose, because it’s a perfect symbol of a woman.”

As a young man, Francois Demachy was at first interested in medicine, dentistry and physiotherapy, but, eventually, the opportunity to work each summer as a trainee for perfume factories, workshops, and warehouses in the region of Grasse helped him gain valuable experience about scents and perfume making and become acquainted with the different aspects of the fragrance industry. Later on he enrolled at a perfumery school and, after finishing his education, he started working for Chanel. His career flourished and since 2006 Francois Demachy is Dior’s Director оf Olfactory Development.

With over 40 years of experience Francois Demachy is picky when it comes to ingredients: “It’s romantic to find ingredients that are no longer used because they’re expensive, or because they’re difficult to find, such as oud or ambergris or tuberose. Perfumery is comparable to cooking, in the sense that if you start with great ingredients, it’s easier to make a great dish.” With the strict regulations regarding natural ingredients, though, he understands the importance of using synthetic ingredients as well: “Synthetic products are very important for us. Synthetics help natural ingredients; they give them a boost and а character.”

His vision about the successful perfume is simple, yet sophisticated: “A successful perfume is one in which the formula is as beautiful as the fragrance… One that makes the woman wearing it smile and awakens desire in men…”

Even though he is a head of a big team, his head is not in the clouds and he participates actively in the development of new perfumes: “like a good chef, much of my day is spent in purchasing, actually choosing, selecting, and buying the ingredients that a perfume will be composed of.”

Here are some of the great perfumes, created by Francois Demachy that you can find in our website:

Do you have favorite among them? Which one is it?

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